How to make a desk PC from IKEA MICKE desk - probably the cheapest DIY desk PC

In this video I'll show you how to convert
pretty much any desk into a desk PC. I based my build on a tiny Ikea MICKE desk,
which costs less than $40 making this probably the cheapest desk PC you can get. Huge thanks to AMD for hooking me up with
their top of the line Ryzen 1800X CPU - it was actually team red's representative who
approached me with an idea of an affordable DIY desk PC. Let's get started...

When adapting a drawer to house PC components,
you must ensure enough area to fit all the hardware while preserving space for your legs
to sit comfortably. Based on my experience, 10 cm provide optimal
balance between the net volume space and legroom. To fulfill this requirement, you must use
a PCI-E riser as the regular sized GPU will stick out too much when inserted directly
into the PCI-Ex slot. This time around I decided to air cool the
CPU - given the height restriction, I went with the Noctua low profile heatsink which
should be enough to handle those 8 physical cores.

Airflow is ensured by a set of four 92 mm
fans which bring some air in through the vents in the bottom and two 12 cm exhaust fans at
the back. As far as tools are concerned, you might need
quite a few. A power drill along with some wood bits, 60
mm circle saw, as well as 35 and 18 mm bits. You will also need a jigsaw or something else
to cut holes for those 120 mm fans, a soldering iron to sort out powering those exhaust fans
and a hot glue gun.

The list of materials includes: a piece of
4 mm thick plywood to reinforce the drawer , a handful of T-nuts and bolts,
tulle material or something else that can act as a basic air filter, some zip-ties,
aluminum pipe to make spacers, 4 by 2 cm angled aluminum bar, a molex to four
3 pin fan connector splitter and another fan splitter for for the exhaust fans along
with some wire to extend those cables, and optionally some cable management accessories. I started just as most of my projects begin
- from putting everything into the drawer to figure out exact location of each component. I marked the position of intake fans, full
size ATX motherboard mounting points, location of the SFX power supply and the riser cable
assembly. At this stage, make sure that your GPU power
cable is long enough to reach to the video card.

I myself am using a simple GTX1050, which
takes all the power it needs from the PCI. Ex slot, but if you're using anything more
power hungry, you might need to order a custom cable for a modular PSU or a cable extender. Then, I disassembled the drawer to prepare
the bottom and the back pieces for cutting. I outlined the power supply and established
the center for the fan intake cut out.

Next was the air intake up front... And the
GPU fans intake to the left of the motherboard. In such confined space, a blower style design
cooler would be your best choice, but a custom cooling will also do its job, just make sure
to provide the fans with enough air. With everything traced out I moved onto cutting.

I drilled a pilot hole and used a cheap hole
saw bit to cut a 60 mm opening for the power supply fan air intake. Next, I drilled a set of six 35 mm cut outs
under the GPU. For the front air intake, I figured cutting
a bunch of holes will preserve better rigidity of the bottom piece that's only 4 or so mm
thick. So, I established centers for each and drilled
a row of 16 mm holes.

I also had to make openings in the back wall
of the drawer for the GPU, motherboard IO. Ports and the PSU exhaust and power connector. I traced the outline of each and marked drilling
points in all corners. I drilled 12 mm holes and cut the rest using
a jigsaw.

After removing the material, I treated edges
with Dremel sanding bit to even lines a little bit. I cut a piece of 4 mm plywood to make the
bottom thicker so the t-nuts that I'm using to facilitate the mounting points don't rip
the original element. I applied some glue and secured the plywood
with a few staples. Next, I drilled motherboard and PCI express
assembly mounting points using a 5 mm bit.

Then, I fixed an M4 T-nut in each hole...
And put the drawer back together. At this point, I decided to attach three PVC
pipes supports for cable management purposes. I'm obviously not a native speaker so I'm
not really sure what these are called. To dust proof all the intakes I used tulle
textile that my wife bought for her wedding skirt.

I cut the material to size, fixed each end
to a small piece of wood using a staple gun and attached it to the bottom of the drawer
using hot glue. When fixing the front fans intake, it turned
out that you can actually hot glue the material directly, without the wooden pieces. Then, I hot glued the intake fans together. That's when I decided to run the cables under
the drawer for clean looks.

So, I marked positioning of each fan's cable
and drilled 4 mm holes. The diameter was large enough to fit the connector
so I removed the plugs, threaded each cable and replaced all connectors. I drilled four holes to zip tie fans assembly
in case hot glue would be insufficient... Applied some glue and fixed the fans in place.

Next, I marked the exhaust fans cut outs,
drilled pilot holes and cut the desk using jigsaw. This would have been much easier if the desk
was disassembled - so if you're starting fresh, don't bother to put the desk together before
you cut these openings. Then I screwed both fans to the back... After
double-checking the airflow direction.

After that, I moved the rails attached to
the desk 2 cm from original mounting points, to lower the drawer so there's enough clearance
for intake and CPU fans. Just be aware that in this area, there's only
a few millimeters of material and it might be that the rails will loosen a bit after
abusing the drawer and you might have to rethink the assembly. To cover the gap at the top that resulted
from lowering the drawer, I got an angled aluminum 4 by 2 cm. I measured at cut it as wide as the front
of the drawer is.

Then I removed some material at each end so
the extension doesn't interfere with the side walls. Next, I drilled two holes on either side for
screws. I made the holes larger to ensure some room
for adjustments. I drilled pilot holes in the front piece and
screwed the extension to it.

To further dust proof the desk, I attached
furry stripes that I think are used in wardrobe furniture. I trimmed the side stripes as the gap between
the desk and the front of the drawer was a little too tight. Finally, I moved onto assembling components. I won't be getting into the PC building details
- there's hundreds of guides available.

The motherboard sits on spacers that I made
from aluminum pipe. It's a really awesome piece of hardware that
was also a gift from AMD. The PCI express riser is fixed on a pair of
longer spacers, ensuring enough clearance for the GPU cooling. The GPU slides right into the slot and it's
secured to the back-mounting piece with an M3 bolt.

I secured the power supply with some hot glue
and stuck the SSD to the side with a piece of double sided tape. After connecting ATX and CPU cables, I drilled
three more holes  one right next to the front fans assembly, another one by the case
front panel pins cluster and at the back for the exhaust fans. I took one of the splitters and used pliers
to squeeze the metal contacts and free the cables from the connector. I run the cables through the hole and replaced
the connector.

I connected all four intake fans, and managed
the excess of cables with a combination of zip ties and zip-ties anchors. Next, I did some soldering to extend the exhaust
fans wiring which I decided to power off of one of the system fans headers on the motherboard. This motherboard has a power button on the
PCB but I still connected a power switch to the front, so I don't have to pull the drawer
out to turn the computer on. You can salvage such switch from an old computer
case or get one in electronics store for really cheap.

Since the original rails don't allow to pull
the drawer out completely, I put the drawer in place and crawled under the desk to connect
all the cables. And this is it - probably the cheapest, fastest
8 core desk PC out there. Operating temperatures are very reasonable
the Ryzen CPU idles at 32 degrees and warms up to around 60 under full load, which
is pretty amazing. Now, the problem is that this system isn't
very quiet due to the fact that the front fans are missing any kind of RPM control.

So I would suggest adding a fan controller
or maybe powering fans off of the 5V rail. Also, you can consider getting finger guards
for the exhaust fans which will prevent cables from hitting the blades when closing the drawer
in case of sloppy cable management. Thanks again to AMD for sending over the Ryzen
1800X - it's an absolute beast and a perfect choice for power users. Thanks for watching, and I'll see you in the
next one..

How to Build a Gaming PC2018!

What's up guys, I'm randomFrankP, today, I'm gonna be showing you how to build a gaming PC step by step This is not restricted to just a gaming PC any PC you'll be building will be following these instructions And I know that thought of this if you don't know what you're doing could be very intimidating, but honestly It's probably a lot easier than you think and I'll be going through all the steps here from start to finish And I really hope it helps you out if you see any the products or hardware you like I will have everything you see Listed in the description down below so you can check it out but let's start this off the case you're gonna be using for this is the Corsair crystal series 5 70 X. RGB case it is ATX so we're going with an ATX build And I love the all tempered glass look to it now first things first Unboxed your motherboard because this is where the majority of the build is gonna Take place carefully take it out of the anti-static wrap and place it on top of the box for now But before you do anything else because this is something that is easily forgotten take the i/o shield from the motherboard box Simply snap this into place on the back of your PC case like I'm showing here This is we're gonna have access to all your motherboard supports and connections and trust me just do this now So you don't forget it later on after the motherboard is already installed Next it's time to grab your CPU. And the processor itself along with most likely a fan will be inside the box now be very careful when handling this because the bottom of the chip is Very fragile in the entire build could get ruined if this gets damaged as you see here on this Ryzen 7 1700 CPU the pins are very tiny and fragile back to your motherboard pull the lever on the socket Backwards to open it up now on the CPU. You'll see a little arrow in the corner But so you can align it with the indicator on your motherboard for a proper install in the right orientation Gently place it down Do not add force if it doesn't just lay into place pick it up and realign it remember be very careful then from here you Close the shield and the lever to secure the chip now it might seem like you're adding a little excessive force when you're closing this Lever, but don't worry.

This is normal. Next is installing your CPU cooler If you have a stock cooler that came along with your CPU it's gonna have some Pre-installed thermal paste on the bottom try not to touch or smear this But in case there isn't any that's pre-installed and it came with it inside the box Or if you bought your own try to put no more than a pea-sized on the sea You from here this stock color just locks into place of those four pins They line up at the holes that are cut out on the motherboard I do want to mention that depending on whether you're building an AMD or Intel build the coolers might be different the resort to your Motherboards manual or your coolers manual if you need additional instructions attached to your cooler is gonna be a four pin fan Cable simply locate the CPU fan connector right at the top of your CPU and plug it in. This is now gonna Give your fan power now real quick if you bought a different fan cooler Or if you have a liquid a i/o resort to that manual because like I said before AMD and Intel different on installation And they include their own brackets and mounts so just resort to your manual for that like I said for this We're just going with the stock fan cooler that came with our Ryzen. Chip next is probably the easiest part of building your PC.

That's installing the RAM. Locate the DIMM slots here on your motherboard and line up the notch on the bottom of the RAM to its respective Orientation whether you're installing one two or all four sticks of Ram you want to install them in the proper read or like I'm showing You now but since we're installing four six the course revenge is RGB RAM for 32 gigs total We're filling all the slots here with some RGB goodness if you installed a ram correctly with a little force the brackets on each side Will snap into place securing it? Now we're going to be putting the motherboard inside the case and make sure you have your case the side panels taken off obviously most cases nowadays Do have pre-installed motherboard standoffs so align your board with the standoffs inside. Placement for this will vary depending on if you have an ITX or an ATX motherboard And if there are no standoffs installed in your case use the ones that are most likely supplied with your cases packaging and screw them In make sure your motherboard is lined up with the i/o shield in the back of the case for a proper fit then screw it Down to lock it all in the place now do not over tighten these screws because you don't want a chance cracking your motherboard Now while we're here your pre installed fan exhaust should have a cable lying free You can just plug this into an available fan port on your motherboard Ours is labeled system fan towards the top right Although place one of these will vary on every motherboard now Before we install the graphics card now is a good time to install the motherboard Connections from your case since you'll have more room to work with Running along the backside of your case you're going to have bundles of cables and connectors to need to be plugged in find your USB. And HD audio cables and locate their matching spot on the bottom of the motherboard But the rest of the tiny pins are.

Now from here It's really just a matching game as each pin is labeled all I have to do is plug them into the correct spot Some of these pins are very tiny and it might be hard to read If you're having trouble reading these or finding where they go again Just resort to your motherboards manual because it's gonna be a much easier diagram its laid out for you And I'll show you where everything goes you can have a big USB 3.0 Connector lying free if your case features this and this two plugs into its matching spot once. That's all done You'll not have access to your cases i/o buttons like the power reset and all the USB connectors And your PC will have power and while we're here again Because this is always easier to install before the GPU it's now a good time to connect your hard drive or your SSD. Some cases have mounting slots or SSDs as well as standard hard drive bays in the back But since we're just using an SSD simply mounted here your motherboards also gonna come with a SATA cable Which will connect your SSD to the motherboard itself? But first plug in a tiny l-shaped connector, and then connected to your motherboard SATA ports on the front These are usually towards the right side of the motherboard so you can have easy access to wrap the cable to it now It's time for the graphics card And it's really simple Using a screwdriver or your fingers move the screws holding in the top two brackets on the back of the case This is where you're gonna have access to HDMI DVI and DisplayPort connectors That's gonna be for your monitor Very similar to how we install the RAM match up the notch on the back of your GPU to the PCIe slot on the motherboard With the fans on your GPU facing downward You'll feel it snap into place and the connectors will be lined up with the rear of the case Now use those same screws to secure the GPU to where those brackets were to secure it This is the msi gtx 1070 TI so it's a newer card And it's definitely a solid pickup if you want something similar to the 1080, but at a cheaper price and don't worry We're pretty much all but done take out your power supply and locate the cables you're gonna need This is depends on if you have a modular PSU or not our CX 750 and from Corsair is modular and has 750 watts of power which is gonna Be more than enough power for this build if your power supply is not modular then all the cables are already attached for you We're gonna need a 8 pin and a 4 pin vga connector for our graphics card my motherboard needs 24 pin power connector on the right side here and Powering the CPU is an 8 pin connector at the top left side of the motherboard And lastly is gonna be powering that SSD and it's pretty much the same as the SATA cable just longer Once you plug in the hardware to the power supply It's time to secure in place this case is bottom mounted although some budget cases are top mounted for the PSU. You just slide it into place under the shroud here and usually included screws some cases to even have a bracket But once it is screw it into place using included power adapter to get it up and running Now we're pretty much done so grab your monitor mouse and keyboard Turn it on and if after a few seconds it boots up to the BIOS screen that means you successfully follow this guide good job Last thing and this is optional, but definitely recommended cable management while all those connectors on the back may be messy It's in your best interest to bundle up as many of these as possible so it's much more organized that way I'll make putting on the back panel much easier without potentially damaging anything if you ever need to change or swap out components having everything Organized will make that much easier to find what you need your case probably has loops in the frame to zip-tie or use cable ties So that's helpful once.

That's done put back on your side panels screw them back into place, and you're good to go Alright, so as you can see with this crazy cool RGB build from Corsair We have going on here using that nice tempered glass crystal case with the RGB Ram and there ll series RGB fans This PC is not only looking crazy cool, but it's done. It's up and running and that's how you build a gaming, PC. This build guide has brought to you by Corsair And the new Corsair hydro pro liquid coolers these a iOS are meant to be seen not her With flashy RGB dynamic zone lighting that would have been perfect for this video combined with magnetic levitation fans and precise pump control You'll have your pcs staying cool while keeping whisper silent for both AMD and Intel CPUs the new hydro pro coolers have modular and tool free mounting brackets for easy installation you can also pick these up in two options 280 millimeters with the H 115 I Pro and 360 millimeters with the H 150 I Pro check the links down below to learn more so if you follow this guide Step-by-step when your PCs good to go Congratulations. You can get the gaming now But remember like I said it depending on whether you're building an AMD or an Intel build Some of the mounting steps will vary for the CPU as well as the cooler Just check your manuals for that if you have any questions giving questions that you just have in general about building a PC let me Know in the comment section down below and don't forget You're solving a hardware that you like check the links in the description down below as well on everything listed down there for you So I hope this video helped you out if it did and you enjoyed it.

Give it a big thumbs up and show your support Feel free to follow me on Twitter at random Frank P and last if you haven't already hit that subscribe button Well, I'm random Frank P. Hope you enjoy your new gaming, PC. Have a good day Oh.

How to Build a Gaming PC (2018)

- Hey guys, this is Austin. I might be slightly sick
but what's also sick is the PC that we're about to build. Yes my friends, it's 2018,
which means it is time for an all new gaming PC build tutorial. So as you guys will probably be aware, building a gaming PC
is not that difficult.

I like to compare it to
something like doing adult legos. Now I will be giving a full tutorial on the Photon 4.0 Today, so if you guys want information about the actual parts that I'm using,
as well as the performance, you guys can go check out that video. The idea here is that pretty much anyone with an afternoon can
build yourself a computer. Before we get started, let
me give you a quick tour of the parts that we're going
to be using for the build.

So any computer is going
to need a processor, in this case a Ryzen 5 2400G. Now what's cool about this, is that not only does
it handle the processor, but this also has
integrated graphics inside. So even though I will be showing you what it's like to install a graphics card, with this build you
don't actually need one. Next we have the motherboard.

So the idea here is that you
put the processor in here, the memory in here, you connect the SSD, pretty much everything in the build will connect with this in some way. Next we have RAM, so you can think of this as the short term memory of your computer. Every time you open up an
application, it lives in this. This build is also using an SSD.

So this is basically the
same thing as a hard drive, it's where you store files and programs and all that kind of stuff. The difference is is that SSDs, while a bit more expensive,
are much, much faster. And this one specifically is
in the smaller M2 form factor. Like I said earlier, this build doesn't actually need a graphics card, but especially if you're
building a higher end gaming PC.

Or you're doing anything that's really heavily reliant on 3D applications, having a graphics card is
going to be a big help. The literal heart of any
computer is the power supply. So this is what takes
the power from the wall and provides it to all of the different components inside your system. Last but not least, we have the case.

Now cases are actually pretty
much dependent on your style, so every computer will need
a certain size of a case depending on how many hard
drives you're putting in, what size motherboard, but a lot of this does come down to your personal preference and with this one, we're
going a little bit stylized. Now anytime you're building a computer, you do need to come prepared
with a wide variety of tools depending on what
situation comes up, or not. Actually, the only thing you really need is a Phillips screwdriver. I'm not kidding, you can
build an entire computer with just a single screwdriver.

So now that we've got all
that stuff out of the way, the last thing to do
is find your workspace. So generally speaking I like
to find a decently sized table, you're gonna have parts and cables and stuff kind of all strewn out. And make sure that you don't build on carpet if you can avoid it, static electricity is the enemy of a computer part, believe me. Hey whoa, whoa, don't show
that, don't show that, Ken.

I'm an expert, it's fine. Just you at home, don't build on carpet, unless you're an expert
or Ken sells you out. The first step is to get
the case out of the box. Now even though we're actually not going to be putting everything
inside the case as we go, that'll happen a little bit later, I still like getting the case out of the box and ready to go.

So this is a little
bit of an unusual case, it is the Thermaltake Core P1. The idea is that because it has a giant tempered glass window, we're actually using it
to show off the build. I will say that this might not be the most beginner friendly
case in the world, considering that we actually
have to put the case together, and usually it just comes
fully assembled out of a box. But let's see how it actually is to build.

(Upbeat music) One quick case change later,
we have the BitFenix Phenom, a case that thankfully does not require 17 steps to put it together. So we're going to be using
this for the tutorial, even though the main build
I will eventually have to rebuild into the other case. But especially just because I've got to actually show you guys how to do it, things are going to be much,
much more common in this case, versus the other one, where
you're going to be doing a lot of weird mounting and whatnot. This is just going to make
everything a lot easier.

The first step is to remove the four thumbscrews on
the back of the case, which will allow us to remove both the left as well as the right side panels. Now we mostly need to do
this to actually be able to get a little more access to the case. But with that open, we can
see that there's actually a fair bit of room inside this. Generally speaking, bigger
cases are easier to work on and as you get smaller
and more sort of custom, it gets a little bit more challenging.

But the good thing is,
pretty much all of them do have a very similar layouts. Usually you'll find a
box full of hardware, so we can open this guy up later, but should have some
screws and some random bits and pieces that we'll need
a little bit later on. If you come around back, we'll see where the power
supply is installed. Now cases will put this
in different locations, sometimes it's gonna be up top, but with this one it's
going to be in the bottom.

All we need to do here, is just
remove the four thumbscrews that keep this little bracket in place. So, going back to my analogy about this being the heart of the system, it really does sort of provide power to basically all of our components. Now power supplies will
come in different sizes, they will be more or less powerful, but at the end of the
day, they are very simple. There are two major
types of power supplies, modular and non-modular.

So this is a standard non-modular supply, which means that all of our cables that we're going to
need come pre-attached. However, higher end power supplies typically do come modular, which will allow you to actually plug in each cable that you want. Basically making it a little
bit cleaner inside your build, so you don't have a bunch of
extra cables hanging around. Before installing this guy,
take note of where the fan is.

So depending on your case,
this will either be facing up or it will be facing down. So with this guy, it's
going to be facing down because we have this little mesh here. The important thing is, always make sure there's some ventilation. You can't put this sort of
like face down on like a table or face down on like
a flat piece of metal, otherwise it will overheat
and bad things will happen.

Inside the power supply box,
you should find four screws. Now this is how we're going to mount the power supply to the bracket, which will then go attach to the chassis. Now not all cases will actually do this, so sometimes you can
completely ignore the bracket and cases will have you mount
this directly onto the case. One thing to keep in mind, is that when you're
tightening things down, start on one corner and then
move to the opposite corner to make sure that you're
applying even pressure.

So I'll do this screw, then
I'll do the one on this corner, and then I'll do the final two. So with the power supply installed, the next step is set
this guy off to the side and grab our motherboard. Like I was saying earlier,
the motherboard is pretty much what everything in the
computer connects to. So there are a few things
that you need to keep in mind, obviously pick a motherboard that is going to be compatible
with your processor, but the size is also important.

So as you guys can see here,
this guy is pretty small, this is what's known as a mini ITX board. Now this happens to be a mini
ITX case, which all works out. You can go with a smaller
motherboard and a bigger case, but obviously not the reverse. So something like a micro ATX
or a full size ATX motherboard would not fit in your case.

So you're going to go
pick one of these out, make sure it supports
the correct processor and make sure that your case will actually be able to fit it. Now anytime you see an exposed
circuit board like this, you wanna be a little bit careful, especially of static electricity. So it comes in this anti-static bag and when you grab it, try not
to grab onto the actual board, so something like one of the
metal pieces should be fine. And once you pull it out,
I like to actually set it on top of the motherboard box.

So even a small motherboard like this is going to have a ton of
different sockets and cables and connectors all over the place, but you only need to pay
attention to a few of them that you're actually going
to use in the system. So one of the most important things is where you install your processor. So Intel and AMD do this
slightly differently but it's pretty much always going to be a gray socket in the middle. The next thing you'll
find are your DIMM slots.

So every motherboard is going to be a little bit different here, this board has two, however
some have four, or even eight. This is where you're going
to install your memory and the only thing to
really watch out for here is to make sure that you
do have the correct RAM. So this, like most modern motherboards, are going to support DDR4. However, older systems will
use something called DDR3 or even all the way back to DDR2.

It's all very similar to install, just make sure you get the right kind. Below the processor is going
to be your PCI Express slot. So since this is such a small motherboard, we only have the one. However, a lot of motherboard
will have four or even seven.

Now this is going to be where you're going to install various different add-in cards. Typically speaking, it's
going to be a graphics card, but sometimes you might
install an SSD here, maybe like a video card,
maybe an ethernet adapter, I don't know, depends
on what you're doing. But that is going to be where you're going to install a lot of
different add-in cards. Move down to these small
rectangular connectors and this is what is called a SATA port.

Now SATA ports can be used
for a couple different things, typically speaking it's going to be either for an SSD or for a hard drive. But if you're still old school
and rocking an optical drive, that will also plug in to the SATA port. Right beside that is our 20
plus four pin power connector. Now this is what supplies the
main power to the motherboard, as well as a lot of it to the processor, to the graphics, all that kind of stuff.

This is going to be the biggest cable that you're going to plug
in from the power supply and usually it's going to be mounted on one of the sides of
the board for easy access. Now in the top corner here, you're going to find our
four plus four pin CPU power. Now motherboards can be a
little bit different here, some only have four pins,
whereas this one does have eight. It's basically the same thing, because pretty much all power supplies are gonna have a lead that
will either do four or eight, but this is what supplies
power to your processor.

Something a little bit
unusual on this board is where the M2 slot is. So this is where you're going
to install higher end SSDs, like we're using for this build, and typically you're
going to find it somewhere on the actual board itself. However on this guy, it's actually going to be here on the back. Spin the whole thing around, and this is where the rear IO lives.

Now these are all going
to be all the ports that are going to be sticking
out the back of your case. So once you install your IO shield, you're going to pretty much see it's something a little bit like this. Speaking of, now is as good a time as any to actually install this guy. So it's just a little piece of metal.

Now the only thing you need to do is make sure that you're going to be doing it in the correct orientation. So for this guy, we're
going to be putting it in on this side, right? This guy's pretty easy to install, so all you need to do is line it up and press it pretty firmly
until it clicks into place. Now you wanna make sure this
is all the way into place, as if it's slightly not quite correct, what's going to happen is your motherboard is not going to line up correctly and that's just going to be a huge hassle. So if you ever have
any problems with that, just make sure that this guy is fully in.

Also, as we'll talk about in a minute, you see all these little metal pins that are all over the place? Make sure these are pulled back
when you install the board. The next step is to install our processor. So in this case we're going
with the Ryzen 5 2400G, but generally speaking it's
going to be very similar, regardless of whether
you're using AMD or Intel. So like I was saying with the motherboard, you want to be very careful when you're handling stuff like this, and especially so when you're
talking about a processor.

So on the back here, if I open it up, you'll be able to see that there are lots of little tiny gold pins. Do not touch these, if
any of them get bent, you're gonna be in serious trouble. The best way to handle this guy is just to grab it form the
sides and hold it by the edges. Actually installing the CPU
is pretty straightforward.

So if you come down to the socket, what you're going to see is
there's a little metal arm here that's going to be the retention arm. So we pull that back
and all the way forward, we're good to install the processor. Now there's going to
be a little metal notch that's going to be on
every single processor, which will tell you which
side to line it up with. So once you do, just set it
gently down into the socket, pull the arm all the way down,
and that is all ready to go.

The next step is to
install our CPU cooler. Now this is an area where
pretty much every single one is going to mount in a different way. So unfortunately, you will
probably have to dive into your instruction manual to see
exactly how to mount yours. Thankfully though, if you're using a stock Intel or AMD cooler, they're not too difficult to install.

The main thing to keep in mind is that there's going to be
pre-applied thermal paste here. You do not want to touch this, as this is what's going
to make a solid contact between the heat sink and your processor. When it comes to the AM4 socket,
which is what Ryzen uses, you're going to wanna
remove these two brackets that hold the little
plastic pieces into place. And once we undo that, we're
free to install the heat sink.

So there are going to be
four little screws here that you're going to want to line up. And when you do this, make sure that you actually set it down it smoothly. So you basically want
all of that thermal paste to make solid contact with the processor. Don't try to like, you know, put it off to one side or the other, just try to get it down as
smoothly and evenly as possible.

Making sure that all of
your screws are lined up, then you just want to tighten them down. And the main thing here is
just like I was saying earlier, you want to do it in a cross pattern, so tighten that one a little bit, then come to the opposite corner, tighten that one down just a little bit. Come over here, and do this process until you get this guy
all the way locked down. Alright, so with that we should be able to pick up the entire
motherboard by the cooler, and it looks like everything
went in pretty well.

Now the next step is to
actually plug in the fan. So this is going to be
using a four pin fan header. So you'll see that there are going to be two little tiny notches there, basically that just means that you can't plug it in the wrong way. So on this board, we have
our fan header right here, and it's as simple as lining it up and plugging it all the way in.

Next up, it's time to install our memory. So RAM is actually very
straightforward to install, so the only thing you need to do is, like I was saying earlier, make sure that if you're
using a DDR4 system, use DDR4. If you're using DDR3, make
sure that you're using DDR3. The easiest way to make sure that you're using the correct memory, is that there's a little notch that's going to be about
2/3 of the way down.

So on DDR4, that's going to line up with the correct slot on the motherboard. If it doesn't line up,
you're probably using the wrong kind of memory. All you need to do is
line it up, slide it in, and then with equal
pressure on both sides, just press it down
until you get the click. Then we just repeat
that with the other DIMM.

And we're gonna be good to go. And so with that, our motherboard is actually pretty much good to go. So the next step is going to be installing this entire contraption
inside of our case. Depending on your case,
the motherboard is going to be installed in a
couple different ways.

So most of the time, it's going to live in this sort of vertical section here. However with this guy, we're going to place it right down here. So if we dig through the
little box of hardware that comes with our case, we
should see a bag of screws. Now we're going to need four of these to mount the motherboard inside.

Now sometimes the case
will actually require you to install the standoffs. So you can see that these
are already going to be here. If so, make sure that you just screw them all the way into place. With this guy, we just need to drop the motherboard into place, screw it in, and we're going to be good to go.

Because this case is so small, it's actually not that hard to
get the motherboard lined up. So we just need to get it sort of roughly in the right position right here, and then if we move it
around to this side, we're going to make sure
that all these ports are actually going to come
through the IO shield. So this is going to require
a little bit of wiggling to make sure that it's
going to line up correctly. But as long as it's on
all four of the standoffs, which it pretty much is, we're
good to screw it into place.

It's a little hard to see it on camera, but there are four screw holes on each corner of the motherboard that we're going to use
to tighten it into place. Now something that you should
definitely keep in mind is that before you
tighten everything down, make sure that everything
is lined up correctly. Remember that whole thing about make sure that you line up
the motherboard correctly so you don't have to
accidentally undo everything? Well you should also make sure that if there's any weird parts on the bottom of the motherboard, that you have those installed before everything is screwed into place. So normally the next step will be to install a standard SATA SSD, however this time we're
going to go with an M2 drive.

Now especially with this
specific WD Blue drive, there's really no major
difference in performance. The main difference is, this
is a much, much smaller drive, which makes it easier to install, especially because it takes
up less room in your case. Installing the drive is
pretty straightforward, you just need to line it up
with the connectors here, making sure that it rests
all the way in there and then we take that little screw that we pulled out of it and that is going to be
the retention mechanism to make sure that this SSD doesn't go flying out of your system. If you're installing
a standard hard drive, SSD, or optical drive in your system, then it's also pretty simple to install.

So if you look over here, there are going to be two connectors. The smaller one is going to be for data and the bigger one is
going to be for power. So every case will do this
a little bit differently, so you can see they have
these little drive rails that you can install not only a big 3 1/2 inch desktop hard drive in, but also something smaller
like this laptop hard drive. So you're gonna want to mount it to there and then for actual cabling,
it's very straightforward.

So you dig through the mess
of power supply cables, you're going to find this long flat guy. There's a little notch on one end, so it's only going to go in one way. All we need to do is just
connect this to our hard drive. Once that's into place, it
doesn't really click or anything, it just slides right
in, we're going to want to find one of these SATA data cables that come with your motherboard.

Again, this guy's notched, it's
only going to go in one way. And if we line that notch
up, it will click into place, and then you just plug this
in into your motherboard and you have your fully up
and running hard drive or SSD. For this video though, no more of this, we're going with our upside down M2 drive that I totally remembered to install now. Something else that most gaming builds do, although we actually don't
need it for this system, is installing a graphics card.

So this is going to be
pretty straightforward. What we're going to be doing
is using the PC Express slot that's going to be on
the bottom of the board. This one's metal, most
of them are plastic, but it doesn't really make a difference. And then what you wanna do is look around to the back of the case, and this is where we're
going to get our video outs.

So essentially, just like
the IO shield protects all those little ports on the motherboard, this is going to be where you're going to get your video outs, such
as display port and HDMI. So if we remove the thumbscrews, we should get this little
bracket out of the way. We're gonna hold on to that for right now, but what we don't need are these two little metal pieces right here. So this is just a cover
to keep your PCI covers from getting dirty or anything
getting inside your system.

If you're installing a graphics card, you get those out of the way. And now we install the
actual graphics card itself. Ordinarily, when you're
installing a graphics card, you measure to see will it
actually fit in your case or not. With this particular case,
it doesn't quite fit.

Which is fine, because we're not using a graphics card in this system, but if we were, it would
go in, right about here. What this really means is I just need to remove these drives, so it doesn't matter because
we're not using them anyway. But that's going to free up the space to install a graphics card. Which, if we just line
it up with the slot, is going to go in a little
bit something like this.

Now all you do is press it
down until it slams into place, that was a little bit more
violent than I expected. However, that is pretty much all we need to do to get it plugged in, now we actually need
to use the power cables to make sure that it has plenty of juice to run all of the crispy, crispy 4K games that we're going to throw at it. If I wasn't going to take
it out immediately after I show you guys how to do this. Some graphics cards,
especially lower end ones, don't require any additional power, it's gonna pull everything it
needs from the motherboard.

But most higher end ones,
this Radeon Vega 56 included, need a couple of these six
plus two pin connectors. So all you need to do is just line up the connectors and plug them in, and then we're gonna be good
to get this guy up and running. It might look pretty bare bones, that's because it is very,
very simple and clean inside. However, this is all the components that we need to make our system work.

The next step is the fun one, connecting all these
wonderful cables and wires all over the place to get
this guy actually operational. So we actually only need two
sets of cables from our system. So we need the four plus
four CPU power connector, which will go straight
into the motherboard. And we're also going to need
our 20 plus four pin connector, which also will go into the motherboard.

And this is going to be the big fat guy, and usually I like to start
with it because it's sort of the most unwieldy cable
to actually connect. All you need to do is line it up and make sure that it clicks
all the way into place and that's going to be it
for the 20 plus four pin. Now the next step is the CPU power cable, which is also going to be pretty easy, if I can find where it went. This one's going to be hard to see, but all you need to do is line it up with the little four
plus four pin connector on the motherboard corner,
plug it all the way in, and you're gonna be good.

Now it's time to install the fan. So this guy has a fan right back here and it uses a three pin fan header, very similar to what we
used for the CPU cooler. Again, this guy has notches, so it's going to plug in to the fan header on the motherboard only one way. Now for most cases, you're going to find a ton of different front panel connectors dangling somewhere from the front.

However, on the BitFenix case, we actually have all of them
attached to the side panel. Now this makes things a little bit cleaner because you can have
the buttons on the side but it makes it a little bit more annoying when you're building the computer because that way you have to kind of hold the side panel in place while
you run all of your cables. So this might look like a lot but it's actually not too crazy. So the big guy is going
to be our USB 3.0 Header.

So the only thing you have watch out for is that there's a little
notch on this guy, when you plug it in, make
sure it's all the way in. I've definitely pulled these guys out and had this entire
plastic piece come with it. Now beside that, we're going to get all of our front panel connectors, I'll explain how to do these in a second, but essentially that's what
we need this manual for, a lot of little fiddly stuff. And then we have our audio.

So these are going to
be our audio connectors to make sure that the headphone and the microphone jack work up front. This guy is going to be
really straightforward, we're just going to plug it in here. One of the only things
that this case doesn't have is a USB 2.0 Header. So that's going to look very
similar to something like this.

You can tell that how the audio and the USB headers are installed because out of all 10 pins, they're each going to
have one knocked out, so again, you can't
install it the wrong way. Last but not least, you wanna grab all of these little tiny front panel connectors. So this is where it's
going to be very important to take a look at that manual
to figure out the diagram of where each thing gets plugged in, as every motherboard does
it a little bit differently. So something important to note is if you look on the bottom here, there are little tiny arrows that denote the positive versus the negative.

That is very important
as when you go to say, I don't know, plug your power button in, and you put it backwards, you're gonna hit it and
nothing is gonna happen. Just make sure that
all of these connectors are put in the correct way. Now this might not look
like a completed system but before we start doing cable management and close the case up and make sure that
everything is ready to go, first we need to do a
test boot to make sure that we didn't make a horrible, horrible mistake along the way. So once you have your monitor,
mouse, and keyboard ready, all you need to do is hit the power button and hope everything works.

We have fans spinning,
the rear fan is spinning. Now, will we actually get it to post? USB is up, and yes! Alright, so that means
that we've pretty much done everything correctly. The next step is to
actually get in the BIOS. And make sure that all of our memory, SSD, all of that kind of stuff
is showing up correctly.

Alright, and it looks like
everything is showing up. So it shows AMD Ryzen 5 2400G, shows our 16 gigabytes of memory. We also do see that our 500
gigabyte SSD is showing up. So from this point, all that's left to do is to turn off the
computer, unplug everything, and then we just need to do a little bit more cable
management to, you know, make sure that the side
panel will go on the case.

But once we've done that, we have a fully operational computer. Throw a copy of Windows on
this guy, install your drivers, and you're gonna have a
fully operational gaming PC. Now if you guys wanna see
how the Photon 4.0 Performs and what the original case
was supposed to look like, feel free to go check
out the video over here. If you enjoyed, definitely be sure to subscribe to the channel.

Anyway guys, thank you
so much for watching and I'm gonna go get some sleep because I've been working on this computer for a very long time and my voice is pretty
much gone, so, yeah..

How To Benchmark Your Windows 10 PC

Hi this is Phil from Make Tech Easier
and welcome to How to Benchmark your Windows 10 PC. In order to fully
understand your PC's performance you need to understand benchmarking and
benchmarking software. Today we're going to help you do that and hopefully
provide you some great options in the process.
What are benchmarks? In this context a benchmark is a measure of performance,
whether for your entire PC or of individual components. This measure of
performance can be lined up to and compared with other PCs that have taken the
same benchmark, allowing you to see how your performance lines up and compared
to everyone else's.

Is one of your components underperforming in comparison
to what other people are scoring? A. Benchmark may reveal that discrepancy.
Before benchmarking your PC. Before you start benchmarking your PC it's
important to ensure that you have all the other programs closed. Having other
applications open will bog down your results, sometimes significantly,
especially in the case of games and web browsers.

You're also advised to close as
many background applications as you can, but those shouldn't matter too much. How
to Benchmark your PC. As far as the actual benchmarking process itself goes
well that's pretty simple. All you need to do is download, install and run the
benchmarking software, typically with the program's default settings.

In the case of
graphically intensive applications like Unigine Heaven and 3DMark you may feel
encouraged to adjust settings. We really only recommend doing this after you've
first run on default settings and then adjusting settings to see how your PC
can handle different levels of visual fidelity. If you want to learn how
to benchmark your PC the how isn't really the question you should be asking.
The question you should be asking is what software should you use and we'll
provide some recommendations now. Userbenchmark.

Userbenchmark is among
our favorite full PC benchmarking tools for a multitude of reasons. First and
foremost using the application is exceedingly simple. It doesn't need to
be installed and after you launch the application you can benchmark your
entire PC in one click. Once the benchmark finishes you'll see your
results opened in your default web browser in a page like this one.
Geekbench.

Geekbench is another full PC. Benchmarking tool but with a catch;
this one is cross-platform. With the cross platform Geekbench benchmarks you
can do things like compare the performance of your PC to the latest
flagship smartphones. For example we have an i54690 in a PC and a Google Pixel
XL as a smartphone.

The cumulative multi-core performance of the Pixel adds
up to the power of just one of the desktop PC cores, at least on paper. Now
obviously these CPUs won't have much crossover in terms of applications and
usages, however being able to compare their raw performance in any capacity is
in our opinion quite educational. Unigine Heaven. Unigine Heaven isn't the
latest Unigine graphical benchmark but it is our favorite.

There's a few reasons
for this but chief among them is that Unigine Heaven is a great benchmarking
tool for today's mid-range GPUs. The latest graphical benchmarks out there
are designed to bring 1080TIs to their knees but the Unigine Heaven
benchmark is a few generations old and more closely in line with what you may
expect out of modern visuals in today's video games. If you have a newer, higher
end GPU and want to push it to its limits, you're welcome to grab one of Unigine's
newer benchmarks. Otherwise this one should do the job for most people with
mid-range gaming PC's or lower 3DMark.

3DMark is one of the premier
graphical benchmarking solutions on the market right now and like Geekbench
it also supports multi-platform. It supports all kinds of different
platforms and graphic APIs and has a multitude of tests you can run to push
your PC to its limits, even with the free basic addition. While 3dmark does lock
some of its features behind a paywall the basic benchmarks will all be
available to you for free with their basic package.
We highly recommend even the basic package though if you want to see what
your system is capable of. Which benchmarking software is right for you?
Ultimately which benchmarking software you opt for is dependent entirely on your
preferences.

For a basic rundown of what your system is capable of and how it
compares to other systems out there Userbenchmark and Geekbench will more than
do the job. In fact Userbenchmark's database of performance results is very
helpful to us as hardware enthusiasts, especially for say comparing GPUs. Unigine Heaven and 3DMark will have larger file sizes and boast more intensive
graphical benchmarks. Scores for these are also fun to compare but in our
experience are generally less useful than Userbenchmarks and are better for
testing the capabilities of your own system not necessarily how it compares
to others.

Of course you can just download all of these if you want to. Let
us know what you decide to go with. Ok as always thanks for watching and please
subscribe and add your comments below. See you next time!.